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110 Degrees in the Shade
(by Alexandra Heath - July 13, 2010)
Yep, summer is here! Although weve had our share of unseasonable weather, such as the frost in late May nearly a month after we normally see our last frost for the year, with the solstice on June 21, weve finally reached warm weather. Now all those heat-loving crops are in the ground and growing and we gardeners are digging out our hats and bandannas. Staying cool during these hot days is rapidly becoming a priority.
We need to think about the plants, though, out there in the intense heat of the summer sun. This is the second year that Ive strung shade cloth up over the garden paths and it makes a huge difference in daytime temperatures on the ground—its even pleasant to be out during the late afternoon! The shifting patterns of shade that move across the planting beds have reduced the amount of sun damage as well. The plants like it!
There are a number of things we can do to cut down on the amount of heat that plants are exposed to especially during the intensely hot summer months. Even those heat-loving tomatoes and corn can use a respite. Ive utilized shade cloth, mulch and row covering to help my plants stay green and growing even when its 110 degrees in the shade.
If you are considering shade cloth for your garden, there are a variety of types and each has a particular application. General guidelines are as follows:
30% shade cloth is suitable for vegetables in areas with very hot summers or to protect cool-weather crops in northern or coastal climates
47% shade cloth is best for lettuce, spinach and cole crops in hot areas
63% shade cloth is ideal for shade-loving plants
80% shade cloth offers maximum shade density and is used over patios and skylights to keep people as well as plants cool (add a misting system and youve got the perfect outdoor environment during the summer)
The denser the shade capacity of the fabric, the more expensive it is. Although all shade cloth is a bit pricey it is virtually indestructible. It will tear after being under tension for a long while, but it is nearly impervious to sun damage. Installation therefore becomes important in order to preserve your investment. Avoid tension at the edges where tears occur. Use snap-clips to relieve the strain in those areas.
Mulch is less expensive and it not only helps conserve water but keeps soil temperatures down. When temperatures on the ground approach 110 to 120, which easily happens during the height of summer, plants begin to die even if they are watered frequently. They just cant stand that much heat. My mulch of choice is either straw or pine shavings. Both are relatively inexpensive and provide the advantage of turning into compost directly on top of your planting beds!
Some gardening experts suggest that using wood shavings robs your plants of needed soil nutrients since the cellulose in the shavings uses up available nitrogen during decomposition. If you have had your soil tested and it has well-balanced nutrients and enough, or slightly more than needed, nitrogen then wood shavings wont cheat your plants of enough to eat. Shavings are easier to walk on (straw tends to be slippery) and spread around. Straw is light enough to let filtered sunlight through and keep plants upright and breaks down slowly, so you dont have to add more as you move into planting your fall crops. Just push it aside, dig a hole for your plant or seed, and cover it over. The seedling will push right through!
Ive also heard about gardeners using newspaper and old carpeting to keep weeds down and the soil happy. Being a picky gardener, I dont like the way this looks—I like things a bit neater, but they are perfectly usable and effective, and occasionally free for the taking!
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