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Ocean to Ocean Part 4 - Surprises in Panama

(by Lanny Dragon - May 14, 2010)

Serendipity, a surprise, a fortunate discovery, has always been part of the thrill and joy of travel for Judy and me. We have visited a church in France to discover the English-speaking expert to be there giving free tours, explaining the relationship of the stained glass windows to the outside sculptures and their roles in the Bible.

One August afternoon we got off a train in Germany and were lucky to find the last available hotel room on the eve of the annual Wedding of the Rivers Festival at the junction of the Rhine and Mosel Rivers. Rooms were generally booked years in advance for this ancient river festival. Our host at the hotel even gave us a discounted rate because his son was attending college in the United States and had been treated kindly by the Americans.

Another year we drove into a small town on the Mediterranean coast to find ourselves part of the annual gathering of the Romani or Gypsy people. Truckloads of musicians and dancers cruised through the town providing exciting photo opportunities, wonderful free entertainment and a great excuse to enjoy some wine or local pastis.

On our Panama adventure the surprises were equally exciting and entertaining, but they were all planned and scheduled! Danny would tell us that he had a surprise, where and when to meet, be sure to bring our cameras, and make suggestions about how to dress for the occasion. Dannys surprises were never a disappointment, and I noticed that he was greeted as a friend at each venue!

One such surprise was the entertainment at Miraflores Locks restaurant. We had toured the locks and museum and enjoyed a fine lunch when the music started from a small boom box. Colorfully costumed young Panamanian dancers took to the floor. Costumes representing mythical spirits and Carnival dancers dazzled our group and inspired some to join the dancers and rotate and shake off some of the calories we acquired at the loaded dessert table.

The evening we arrived in Colon we checked in at our second hotel, a Radisson, after a great day on the canal. Complimentary cold punch, with or without local rum, was served poolside on the second floor, and we were told to relax and be back by 6:30 for another surprise.

Panamanian Spirit Dancer

Danny, Miss Panama & the Models

With a setting sun and an RCCL cruise ship docked across the pier, our hostess, a former Miss Panama, introduced an innovative young fashion designer who was incorporating the colorful molas of the indigenous Kuna Indians into stylish sportswear for the young and adventurous. Her young female models were mostly shop girls from the International Duty Free Marketplace. They were slim beauties who aspired to be on the cover of fashion magazines and/or Sports Illustrated.

Sometimes our surprise was part of a local visit as was the case in the Caribbean colonial city and fort in Portobelo. There Panamanian descendents of slaves danced in bizarre costumes of scraps and discards to the jungle beat in a Congo dance. Drum beats matched the barefoot rhythm on a cobblestone street. It was a music and dance of escape and jubilation and was exhausting just to watch.

The Congo dance and music was originally designed to spoof the Spanish soldiers and foreign invaders. Todays dancers include in their costumes some symbols of modern invaders, or tourists - plastic water bottles, sports shoes and luggage! The mirrored headdress reflects the tourist photographer in the costume of the dancer.

They say that a skillful host saves the best for last, and in this Danny and Caravan Tours was no exception. Our Farewell Dinner required a bus tour through the bright lights of Panama City, a security guard unlocking a gate and escorting us to the restaurant, a night-time visit to Miraflores Locks to watch the busy night transits on the Panama Canal and one last night of dinner, music and dance. That evening our hosts greeted Danny and welcomed us as their guests. After a fine dinner, a Panamanian music group arrived, followed by a troup of dancers.

Congo Dancers

The Panamanian men wore the typical white shirt, black pants and straw montuno hat. The women wore the hand-embroidered, frilled lace polleras. Each dress takes about a year to make, and Judy and Tedo were fascinated by the workmanship and stitchery of the costumes. Around their necks the women wear sparkling gold chains with adornments, all 24 carat and featuring rosaries, crosses and chains celebrating the Catholic history of Panama. The hair ornaments, or tembleques, are exquisite! A large tortoise shell comb embellished with pearls and gold is worn crown-like on top of the head. Gold hairpins and tembleques, quivering pins worn in pairs on each side of the head, give the appearance of a shimmering halo. This national dance of Panama is in the Spanish paseo style. It is romantic, colorful and stirring.

I tried to find the words to sum up our 9 day Panama adventure and settled for the simple sign displayed at the door that read it was a Caravan exclusive. Danny had kept his word to include everything promised and more!

Back at the hotel we packed and exchanged email addresses with our new friends. The 4 a.m. wake-up call came all too soon, and our faithful driver Dario drove us to the airport to begin the trip home.

My head was so filled with our Panama adventures that it took a sleeping pill at home before I could quiet my mind so that my exhausted body could rest. As I said in Part 1, it was more than a cruise, better than a tour it was much, much more.

It is 4 weeks later, and Judy and I are ready to travel again. Judy contends that we are like the Romani with feet itchy to travel! There is still so much to do, people to meet and places to go!

Goodbye until our next trip!

Old Friends & New -
Tedo, John, Judy & Julia


 

 

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